Lithuania always comes near the end...

And so the end is near, because I'm in Vilnius now, and will be on my way to Tallinn in a couple hours, and then it's Moscow. Which is really just the beginning.

Since I last typed:

Budapest- In the upper echelon, certainly, as weird as it was. One full day of touring provided plenty of good sightseeing, from the Buda Castle District to multiple good views of the Parliament to the Citadel on Gellert Hill, as well as the most lavish synagogue I've ever seen, and apparently the 2nd largest in the world at that (#1, anybody?) I guess it makes sense they call it the "Great Synagogue".

The payoff was all on the last day, however, where I not only found out that I didn't lose my pair of spandex when I went to the National Art Museum (it was in my jacket pocket, obviously), but I got to go in the Szechnyi baths. It's basically a big spa complex, except all naturally heated and outdoors. A very nice 3 hours spent, lounging around mostly naked and looking at other mostly naked people while healing the bod. Or something.

Krakow- Very homey city, comfortable, low-key, but with a nice little nightlife scene (ok, I'm not the best judge, conceded). Plus my hostel had a great book to read, so I got going on that. And I took a run and only got lost a little bit this time, it's a convenient route around the city.
A lot of Jewish stuff in the city and catching a train out to Auschwitz, which was all pretty worthwhile. As was running back to the train station only to miss my train back to Krakow, but then catching a bus, which got to Krakow late, meaning I ended up just squeezing onto the 20:00 train for Warsaw, so I got in there at the cheery hour of 22:45, rather than an hour later.

Warsaw- I wasn't here very long and this was one of my down days physically, so I was kinda crapped out, but I was surprised, the city was nicer than I thought it would be. Plus I found another beef tartare (first time I've had it in the same country, my 4 previous times were in Poland, Montreal, Somerville, and Paris), and this place that had hot chocolate that was actually too rich. I didn't think hot chocolate could be too rich, but E. Wedel proved me wrong.

Vilnius- I've only been here today but it has been lovely. I got in much too early and was tired, but decided after some consulting with friends north of here to stay until the night bus. I sludged around for breakfast and then decided to stop in on a Shabbat service, because I thought it would be interesting and keep me busy. It was more the latter than the former, but never let it be said that the Choral Synagogue does not know how to hold a kiddush: good eating. Plus, the sermon/service was in Russian when it wasn't in Hebrew, so that was cool.

In fact, Vilnius is at least 50 % Russian speaking, marking the first day of my immersion, I suppose. And it's a very pretty city, with a nice old town and this hill to climb to a tower. I got to the top, which had a nice view and all, but was also superb to nap on. So I napped. It was the best half hour of the trip, I think.

I was going to load a picture but it's taking too long. I basically wanted to show how ridiculous I look right now: long unkempt (and infrequently washed at best) hair, full facial scruff, and I'm wearing my shirt/khakis combo right now. But, on the precipice of Moscow, I have not lost/damaged my camera (though I left it in a bathroom in Vienna for a couple minutes), I have only broken the wristband on my watch, turning it from a cheap wristwatch into a cheap pocketwatch (August 29th in Barcelona for those who had the date in the pool), and the only item I've lost is my glasses case (train to Krakow). Which seems easy, but you must consider how absentminded/stupid I can be about these things.
The trip's been lovely, educational, tiring, and satisfactory. And I think I'm ready for Moscow too. Is it ready for me?
(sorry, couldn't help it)
Dan